Why go to Provence? Provence, like Tuscany, is one of France's best bets for seeing rural life lived to the fullest. From Romanesque churches in high spots on the landscape, to the stunning colors of rain-sculpted ochre just outside of the village of Roussillon in the Luberon, to Roman sites and bridges--and you can see most of it in a week.
Below the map you'll find information on the most interesting cities and things to do in Provence.
The Departments of Provence
Provence is divided into the six Departments you see on the map: Bouches du Rhone, Var, Alpes Maritimes, Vaucluse, Alpes de Haute Provence, and Hautes Alpes. The departments to the west--Vaucluse and Bouches du Rhone--are bordered on the west by the Rhône river. These two departments are generally what tourists think of when they think of Provence.
To further muddy the waters, Peter Mayle's books refer to Provence, but usually are written about just a part of it, the Luberon, which is mostly in the Vaucluse. The Luberon has as its backbone a mountain range that forms a sort of climate wall, a boundary between the warm and dry Mediterranean climate of the south and the cooler alpine influence on the north.
Still, many people consider the Luberon to be the heart of the "real" Provence, and I would agree.
Expanding a bit, the Provence I find most appealing is found in the triangle between Avignon, Arles, and Salon de Provence. Here you can drive your car to practically any small town and find a charming and inexpensive hotel. Below are the places I find compelling.
And yes, you'll need a car to see this gorgeous territory.
Favorite Tourist Cities of Provence
- Arles - First inhabited by the Greeks, but made the most of by the Romans, who left a theater and amphitheater for tourists to gawk at. Arles used to be a thriving port city before it all silted up to become the marshy Camargue. Van Gogh chopped off his ear here--and produced some of his best work as well. The people didn't like him much at the time, but they do now, of course.
- Avignon - a spectacular city with the must-visit Palais des Papes (Palace of Popes) as well as other sites and a compelling old town, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Parking outside the gates, on the other side of the Rhone, isn't as difficult as you might think. Read more: 24 hours in Avignon.
- Camargue - See a different side of France, a France of cowboys and bulls and fantastic bird life in the salt marshes.
- St. Remy de Provence - Founded by the Romans as Glanum, There is lots to see here--and it's a great place to make a hub for your visit to Provence Outside the town is the Ancien Monastère de St- Paul-de-Mausole, the 12th century monastery that was converted to the psychiatric hospital where Van Gogh was admitted and where he produced some of his most famous paintings--like Starry Night. There is a walk you can take that signposts where he produced some of his paintings, but the trail was becoming overgrown when we were there. Still worth a look though. Nostrademus was born in St. Remy as well. And the ancient Roman city of Glanum is still visitable. Especially odd is the Fumarium, used for smaking wine.
St. Remy in Provence Lodging St. Remy Vacation Homes and Apartments
An Overview of Glanum - les Baux - Bauxite was discovered here in 1821, and Les Baux seems to be built out of the quarries. Now it's a craftsman's hangout, and you can taste wine in one of the caves.
- Orange - If you like well-preserved, monumental Roman Ruins, you'll love the theater and arch found in this Provence town, just 21 kilometers north of Avignon.
Recommended Towns to Visit in the Luberon
Here are the towns of the the Luberon we think you should consider visiting. Considering the diminutive size of the Luberon-and its villages, you can easily pick a hub and see all of them in a week.
- Oppede-le-vieux: This hillside town entranced us as we wandered through it and soon became our favorite place in the Luberon. The old high village, abandoned in the 17th century when folks moved into the valley to get close to the source of water and their fields, is undergoing its rebirth, coming to life with potters and artists starting to move in. The village seemed to draw me into the medieval times, as if there were folks waiting just inside some of the abandoned houses. Yet, on the main road, a cafe was open and the vines covering the square were ablaze with color in the month of November.
- You'll find the highest views of the Luberon in the town of Saignon, which was a lookout point protecting the larger town of Apt. The 12th century Romanesque church of Saignon is quite grand, and three castles tell of the town's importance.
- Cucuron is known for its basin surrounded by plane trees, a feature that draws film studios like bees to honey.
- Roussillon is known for its ochre deposits, a valuable commodity for artists. A stroll through the deposits is hauntingly beautiful.
- The real reason to visit Lacoste these days is to wallow in the charm of its medieval architecture that seems unchanged over time, ending up at the Marquis de Sade Château Château ruins and the views over the valleys of the Vaucluse. Read: Lacoste & The Château de Sade to find out more.
- Menerbes is one of the best known of the Luberon villages and rightly so, made famous by Peter Mayle in his book "A Year in Provence". Menerbes is not only beautiful in itself, but the surrounding countryside is stunning as well. Menerbes, you see, is one of France's prized "perched villages" or villages-perchés. The village is spread out on the top of a hill that rises from a valley of agricultural fields, vineyards (from which the celebrated Cotes du Luberon is produced) and cherry orchards. In spring it's gorgeous, in fall, when we last visited, it was still quite colorful. At one end of the village is Menerbe's mainly 16th century castle.
- Gordes has often been mentioned as the most picturesque town in the Luberon. The village is perched on a rock and is a member of Les Plus Beaux Villages de France.
- Bonnieux is a great little town dating back to Roman times. The 3 BC Pont Julien is just north of town and there's a Cedar forest on the outskirts. The 16 through 18th century residences are stunning and there is a Boulangerie Musueum. What more could you want?
- There's a 15th Century castle in Lourmarin, Albert Camus lived, worked and was buried in the Lourmarin cemetery. Take in the Friday morning market, then amble over to the Cafe Gaby for the Friday aioli and local color.
